Elizabethan Times


I finished watching Elizabeth I, the HBO movie. the other night and was fascinated by the clothing!  I did not know before seeing the movie that the sleeves of the garments were separate pieces and I certainly didn't know how many layers of clothing women wore. Ugh.  Very interesting indeed.



Elizabethan Upper Class Fashion

Elizabethan Upper Class Fashion
The new and exciting ideas of the Renaissance including an increased interest in science and mathematics influenced upper class fashion. The clothes worn during this era were influenced by geometric shapes rather than the natural shape of the body. Padding and quilting together with the use of whalebone or buckram for stiffening purposes were used to gain this geometric effect with emphasis on the shoulders and hips. The fashions were designed to give the impression of a small waist - especially desired by the women but also emulated by men who wore tight waisted, stiffened doublets. Men would sometimes wear girdles, the equivalent of the female corset, to obtain the wasp waisted look.

Elizabethan Clothing - The Upper Classes
The Elizabethan era was a society divided by class. The divisions were manifested in the clothes that people wore which were decreed by the Law. These were called the Sumptuary Laws which provided strict clothing guidelines in order to limit the expenditure by people on clothes - and of course to maintain the social structure of the Elizabethan Class system! The penalties for violating Sumptuary Laws could be harsh - fines, the loss of property, title and even life! Clothes provided information about the status of the person wearing them. This was not just dictated by the wealth of the person, it also reflected their social standing. Only Royalty were permitted to wear clothes trimmed with ermine. Lesser Nobles were allowed to wear clothing trimmed with fox and otter!

Upper Class Fashion restrictions!
There are many examples of upper class fashion restrictions! Cloth of gold or gold tissue could be worn by the Queen, Queen's mother, children, sisters and aunts together with Duchesses, Marquises, and Countesses but was not allowed to be worn by Viscountesses, baronesses, and other personages of like degrees! The upper class women of the Elizabethan era were therefore extremely ambitious and pushed their husbands to gain titles and high ranks!

The Elizabethan Fashion of Slashing Materials
The limitations of Elizabethan dress and clothing led to a new fashion being created. Both men and women began to slash their clothes. The slash or cut in the outer surfaces of garments (doublets, sleeves and gowns) exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath. The linings would be pulled through the slash and puffed out to further emphasize the contrast of colors, fabrics and materials.  

The Peacock Age - Elizabethan Upper Class Fashion
Upper class fashion was highly elaborate - and necessary to achieve attention and success at court. It was referred to as the Peacock age as the Upper class Elizabethan men were often more elaborately dressed than the women!

Materials and Fabrics used in Elizabethan Upper Class Fashion
Elizabethan Nobles and Upper classes wore a variety of expensive clothing made of velvets, satin, furs, silks, lace, cottons and taffeta. Many of these sumptuous materials were imported from the continent. These exotic materials were introduced in earlier centuries by Knights returning from the crusades. Silks and cottons were imported from the Middle East and velvet was imported from Italy. The Dye required to achieve the fashionable bright and rich colors were also imported from abroad at great expense. Full details of the colors and fabrics used during the Elizabethan era can be accessed via the Sitemap at the top of the page.

Changes in Upper Class Fashion during the Elizabethan Era
Queen Elizabeth led the way for many of the new styles and fashions changed significantly during her reign. At the start of her reign fashion for women was modest and the body of a woman was covered from head to foot. Women's fashion emulated that of a man! Frilled collars became more and more elaborate developing into the famous Elizabethan ruff, which was worn by both men and women. Ruffs, or ruffles, started as a high frilled collar. Fashion then dictated a more feminine and seductive image for women which was achieved by opening the ruffle in front to expose the neck and the top of the bosom. The ruff was then constructed on gauze wings which were raised at the back of the head. The ruffs, or collars, framed the face and dictated the hairstyles of the age which were generally short for men and swept up look was required for women. A frizzy hairstyle was also required!

The 'Ideal' Elizabethan Woman
Although the fashion for women changed to a more seductive look it was important for Queen Elizabeth to maintain her image and the beauty of a 'Virgin Queen'. The Elizabethan view of pure beauty was a woman with light hair and a snow white complexion complimented with red cheeks and red lips. Queen Elizabeth achieved this picture of ideal beauty by using white make-up. This explains the odd white face make-up seen in many of her portraits. This image of the Virgin Queen was further enhanced by the work of Edmund Spenser (1552-1599) in his epic poem 'The Fairie Queene' which was dedicated to Queen Elizabeth.  An Upper Class Elizabethan woman followed this fashion further and might even dye her hair yellow with a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil! Wigs were also commonly used - Queen Elizabeth had a wide variety of wigs and hair pieces!

Elaborate Upper Class Fashions
Elizabethan fashion was highly elaborate. Clothes were decorated with heavy embroidery and decorated with jewels, spangles, pearls. Clothes were designed with a layered approach requiring assistance in dressing from servants. Upper class fashions were tight, hot and uncomfortable. More comfortable loose garments, similar to housecoats, were worn when the nobility were not on show! Padding had a practical use as it was used to great effect on the top of sleeves. Sleeves were made separately from the bodice of gowns and tied or pinned together, The padding hid the pins. Pins were an essential part of Elizabethan fashion and used in great quantities on ruffs - this lead to a lucrative pin making industry.

Elizabethan Hair Styles

Elizabethan Hair Styles
Elizabethan Hair Styles for the court were led by Queen Elizabeth. Upper class fashion, which included hairstyles, was highly elaborate - and necessary to achieve attention and success at court. It was referred to as the Peacock age as the Upper class Elizabethan men were often more elaborately dressed than the women and their hair and beards received a similar amount of attention!

Elizabethan Hair Color
It was important for Queen Elizabeth to maintain her image and the beauty of a 'Virgin Queen'. The Elizabethan view of ideal beauty was a woman with light hair and a snow white complexion complimented with red cheeks and red lips. Queen Elizabeth achieved this picture of ideal beauty by using white make-up. This explains the odd white face make-up seen in many of her portraits. Queen Elizabeth had a natural red color hair. This red hair look was emulated by many of the nobility of the Elizabethan era, as was the fair hair ideal of an ideal woman! An Upper Class Elizabethan woman followed this fashion further and might even dye her hair yellow with a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil! Wigs were also commonly used - Queen Elizabeth had a wide variety of wigs and hair pieces - believed to number over eighty! These were often referred to as Periwigs.

Elizabethan Hair Styles for Women
Elizabethan Hair Styles for women were designed to compliment the upper class fashions of the day. Ruffs, or ruffles, were in high fashion and during the Elizabethan era these became more elaborate and were constructed on gauze wings which were raised at the back of the head. The ruffs, or collars, framed the face and dictated the hairstyles of the age which were generally short for men ( at the beginning of the Elizabethan era) and swept up look was required for women. A frizzy hairstyle was also one of the required styles for women! Women kept their hair long and the full natural beauty of their long hair was displayed by the young women of the era. The long hair flowing hair of a young girl was a sign of a virgin and the favoured hairstyle for a bride on her wedding day. An Elizabethan bride would adorn her hair with fresh flowers. Once a woman achieved the married status she wore her hair swept up. Much of the hair was covered by some form of head covering. Long hair was generally dressed in a bun to which the variety of head coverings could be pinned. The front and sides of the hair received great attention as this was the area that was most displayed. Fringes were not in fashion - hairstyle fashion dictated that hair was combed way from the forehead. The hairstyle was usually designed to compliment the style of the hat. Frizzed hair was favoured by the Queen and therefore followed by ladies of the court although straight hair was favoured with a centre parting which especially complimented the french hood.  

Head Coverings for Women
The Elizabethan fashion dictated that the head was adorned with a hat, veil, coif or caul. This fashion therefore ensured that much of the hair was hidden by some form of head coverings. The style of the head covering dictated the hairstyle. Many of the hats were adorned with feathers, pearls, glass jewels, spangles, gold thread, embroidery and lace.

  • The Coif - The coif ( commonly referred to as the 'biggin' ) worn by all children. Material was plain white linen, a close fitting cap tied under the chin. Coifs were often worn as caps to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats

  • The French hood - Introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. A half moon, or crescent, style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edges were often adorned with pearls or glass jewels, called bilaments, and a veil covered the back of the hair

  • The Atifet - Similar to the French hood style but with a heart shaped crescent - favoured in white by Mary Queen of Scots. Lace trimmnigs were added

  • The Caul - Cauls were the Elizabethan hair net! A Caul covered the hair at the back of the head and was made of fabric, or fabric covered by netted cord which was sometimes adorned with spangles.

  • The Pillbox style of hat - often had a veil attached to the back

Elizabethan Hair Style - a comment dating back to 1583!
During the Elizabethan era pamphlets were printed and distributed commenting on life in Elizabethan England. A writer of one such pamphlet was a well travelled Londoner called Philip Stubbes. He was believed to have been born c1555 and died c1610. He was well educated and attended both Oxford and Cambridge University. He was also a strict Elizabethan Puritan and held firm views on any social practices which, in his view were, unfitting  true Christians. He named his work " The Anatomie of Abuses " in which he strongly criticised many of the fashions of the Elizabethan era. It was entered in the Stationers' Register on 1 March 1583. This pamphlet includes his view and some valuable information about Elizabethan hair styles:

"Then followeth the trimming and tricking of their heds in laying out their hair to the show, which of force must be curled, frizled and crisped, laid out on wreathes & borders from one eare to an other. And lest it should fall down, it is underpropped with forks, wyres, & I can not tel what, rather like grim stern monsters, than chaste christian matrones. Then on the edges of their bolstered heir (for it standeth crested round about their frontiers, & hanging over their faces like pendices or vails with glasse windows on every side) there is layd great wreathes of gold and silver, curiously wrought & cunningly applied to the temples of their heads. And for feare of lacking any thing to set foorth their pride withal, at their heyre, thus wreathed and crested, are hanged bugles, ouches, rings, gold, silver, glasses , & such other gewgawes and trinckets besides, which, for that they be innumerable, and I unskilfull in wemens terms, I cannot easily recount."

Elizabethan Hair Styles for Men
Elizabethan Hair Styles for men were just as important as they were for women. The length of hair varied during the Elizabethan era. It started as short closely cropped hairstyles and increased in length during the period. Considerable time was spent grooming the hair, especially when it was fashionable to sport a longer length. Long hair was required to be curly! Men had their hair curled with hot irons. To keep the hair in place wax or gum was applied to the hair!

Elizabethan Beards
It was fashionable for men to sport beards during the Elizabethan era. The styles and cut of beards changed with the fashion of the day. The beards could be cut in various styles including pointed ( van-dyke style ), square, round or oblong. Starch was applied to keep the beards in place. Beards were also kept long and so required no help from the barber. Philip Stubbes also had comments about Elizabethan barbers and the cuts of beards available:

"...have invented such strange fashions and monstrous maners of cuttings, trimmings, shavings and washings, that you would wonder to see. They have one maner of cut called the French cut, another the Spanish cut, one the Dutch cut, another the Italian, one the newe cut, another the old, one of the bravado fashion, another of the meane fashion. One a gentlemans cut, another the common cut, one cut of the court, an other of the country..."

Another description of Elizabethan England was written by William Harrison between 1577 - 1587 who described how the vanity of Elizabethan men was pandered to by their barbers

"if a man have a lean and straight face, a Marquess Otton’s cut will make it broad and large; if it be platter-like, a long, slender beard will make it seem the narrower; if he be weasel-becked, then much hair left on the cheeks will make the owner look big like a bowdled hen, and as grim as a goose, if Cornelis of Chelmersford say true. Many old men do wear no beards at all." 

Material & Fabrics used in Elizabethan Era Clothing

Material & Fabrics used in Elizabethan Era Clothing
Elizabethan Clothing and Material & Fabrics used in Elizabethan Era Clothing was extremely important. The materials worn during the Elizabethan era provided instant information about the status of the person wearing them! A man or women who wore  clothes made of satin, silk or velvet would be immediately recognised as a member of the Elizabethan nobility or upper classes. People of the Lower Classes wore clothing generally made of wool, linen and sheepskin.

Material & Fabrics dictated by Law!
Elizabethans were not allowed to wear whatever they liked! It did not matter how wealthy they were - the color, fabric and material of their clothes were dictated by their status or position and this was enforced by English Law! These laws about clothing in the Elizabethan era were called Sumptuary Laws. They were designed to limit the expenditure of people on clothes - and to maintain the social structure of the Elizabethan Class system! The clothes that Elizabethan women wore were dictated by the Sumptuary Law as decreed by Queen Elizabeth on 15th June 1574. The English Sumptuary Laws were well known by all of the English men and women. And the Law was strictly obeyed! The penalties for violating Sumptuary Laws could be harsh - fines, the loss of property, title and even life! People living in the Elizabethan era only wore clothes that they were allowed to wear - by Law!

Expensive Material & Fabrics
Elizabethan Nobles and Upper classes wore clothing made of velvets, furs, silks, lace, cottons and taffeta. Knights returning from the Crusades returned with silks and cottons from the Middle East. Velvets were imported from Italy. The materials worn by the Nobility came in a variety of different colors. The dyes used for coloring these clothes were expensive. The red dye came from a Mediterranean insect which provided a bright scarlet color.

Cheap Material & Fabrics
The Elizabethan Lower Classes had to wear clothing made of wool, linen and sheepskin however, silk, taffeta and velvet trimmings were allowed. Not only were the fabrics strictly restricted but also the colors.

Slashing Material & Fabrics
The limitations of dress and clothing led to a new fashion being created. Both men and women began to slash their clothes. The slash or cut in the outer surfaces of garments (doublets, sleeves and gowns) exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath. The linings would be pulled through the slash and puffed out to further emphasize the contrast of colors, fabrics and materials.

Common Elizabethan Material & Fabrics
The following fabrics and materials were common during the Elizabethan era:

Brocade, Buckram, Calico, Cambric, Canvas, Corduroy, Cypress, Damask, Felt, Flannel, Gauze, Grogram, Holland, Lawn, Linen, Lockram, Plush, Russet, Sarcenet, Satin, Shag, Silk, Tabbinet, Tabby, Taffeta, Tiffany and Velvet

 

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